Extermination process and common questions about rodent control
Step 1: Assess the level of infestation and initial entry points
First, it is important to determine the type of rodent, their approximate range of activity, the number of rodents, and potential entry points.
Inspect the area
This includes examining the distribution, quantity, size, consistency, freshness of rodent droppings, black footprints, claw marks, gnawing marks, and any possible odors.
Check the locations
Rodents generally prefer warm areas near food and water sources, as well as dark hiding spots. Common areas of activity include behind stoves and refrigerators, along the edges of electrical panels, under dishwashers, under kitchen countertops, especially around hot and cold water pipe junctions, bathtub wall openings, and food storage areas, as well as around hot water tanks in basements.
Examine entry points
Common entry points for rodents include damaged areas around garage doors, kitchen vents, junctions between water pipes and walls, areas around water heaters, cable wire openings, and connections between tree branches and exterior walls near water and sewer pipes.
Step 2: Specific measures for rodent control
Based on the evidence and level of infestation, if it is determined to be small mice, they can be categorized into three groups for differentiated treatment. If it is a large sewer rat, please refer to the next page on sewer rat control."
Mild House Mouse Infestation Handling Suggestions
Symptoms on site:
- A very small amount of uniformly sized mouse droppings were found, scattered under the cutting board, around pipe bends, behind the refrigerator and stove.
- The distribution of mouse droppings is limited, and there is minimal evidence of food gnawing.
Interpretation of traces:
- This indicates occasional intrusion by a single mouse, with very few in number and no established breeding.
Tools needed:
- Product No.1, including professional mouse glue traps and professional mouse traps.
Steps for handling:
1. Firstly, perform thorough cleaning by removing mouse droppings and sealing food storage to cut off the mouse's food source, reducing their breeding and survival chances.
2. Next, place mouse glue traps along walls and pathways where traces are found, install 3D bubble adhesive, capture boxes, and high-sensitivity semi-automatic safety mouse traps in corners.
3. If it's difficult to determine the extent of mouse activity, install glue traps and adjustable traps in key areas such as behind the stove and refrigerator, beneath the electric meter panel, beside the garage door, at heating wire outlets, beneath dishwasher pipes, especially at the junction of hot and cold water pipes under kitchen countertops, at bathtub pipe wall openings, in food storage compartments, and around the basement hot water tank.
4. After a few days of observation, if no mice are captured, consider repositioning the glue traps and traps.
Demonstration of glue traps and traps placement:
Moderate House Mouse Infestation Handling Plan
Symptoms observed:
- A noticeable amount of mouse droppings, with relatively uniform distribution, found mainly under kitchen countertops, behind the refrigerator and stove.
- Some food has been nibbled on, and occasional mouse activity has been visually observed.
Interpretation on site:
- The infestation involves a moderate number of mice that have established themselves but have not yet started spreading.
Plan and tools for handling:
- It is recommended to use the latest 3D foam pellet adhesive, secure capture boxes, high-sensitivity safety mouse traps, and professionally packaged rodenticides. Consider using high-voltage electronic induction mouse traps as well.
- Pay special attention to key areas within the range of mouse activity, such as beneath the electric meter panel behind the stove and refrigerator, beside the garage door, at heating wire outlets, beneath dishwasher pipes, beneath kitchen countertops, at the junction of hot and cold water pipes, at bathtub pipe wall openings, in food storage compartments, and around the basement hot water tank.
- Install glue traps, adjustable glue traps, traps, and rodenticides (placed in secure boxes) in these key areas.
- Particularly focus on the lower part of the bathtub repair opening, as it is an important passage for mice and requires the use of rodenticides.
Demonstration of glue traps, traps, and rodenticides placement:
Severe House Mouse Infestation Handling Plan
Symptoms on site:
- A large quantity of mouse droppings, varying in size, some resembling intermittent thin lines.
- Numerous paw prints and black footprints can be observed along the wall corners.
- Extensive evidence of food gnawing.
- Mouse droppings are found not only behind the stove and refrigerator but also in other areas, and mouse activity can even be visually observed during the day.
Interpretation on site:
- The infestation has been ongoing for a significant period, with a large number of mice breeding collectively within the household, taking advantage of favorable environmental conditions and already spreading.
Plan and tools for handling:
- Use the latest professional rodenticides, along with supplementary professional glue traps and professional mouse traps.
- Firstly, conduct thorough cleaning to remove mouse droppings and seal food storage to cut off the mouse's food source, reducing their breeding and survival chances.
- Then, place a large number of adhesive papers, traps, and rodenticides in areas with mouse droppings and gnawing evidence, including around the basement hot water tank, the boiler next to the air conditioner, storage rooms, and around the electrical panel in the utility room. Depending on the situation, apply rodenticides in closed boxes for saturation.
- In the kitchen area, particularly focus on the lower part of the electric meter panel behind the stove and refrigerator, beside the garage door, at heating wire outlets, beneath dishwasher pipes, beneath kitchen countertops, at the junction of hot and cold water pipes, at bathtub pipe wall openings, and in food storage compartments.
- Ensure that rodenticides are placed in boxes to prevent contact with pets and children.
- Pay special attention to the lower part of the bathtub repair opening, as it is an important passage for mice and requires special attention.
- Exercise caution when using common household medications. Household medications Demonstration of glue traps, rodenticide placement, and household recommendations."
Methods for Dealing with Sewer Rats
On-site Symptoms:
Sewer rat droppings are the size of broad beans, with a rounded shape at both ends. The bite marks are relatively large.
Step 1: Find the entry points and take preventive measures
For large buildings, outdoor lawns, and areas near the sewer, pay attention to whether there are road constructions or other potential sources of sewer rat invasion. Indoors, especially at damaged sewer pipes, areas near the ground where sewer pipes enter or exit, electrical pipe openings, household indoor drains, water pipe entry points, etc., timely repair of sewer pipes, installation of drain outlet protection nets, and maintenance of check valves should be carried out.
Step 2: Specific methods for eliminating sewer rats
For a small number of sewer rat invasions, the following tools can be used:
- Specially designed 3D adhesive paper: One of the most effective methods, it can be placed on the marked pathways to prevent sewer rats from entering.
- Semi-automatic large rat traps: The preferred choice for dealing with large rats.
- High-pressure electronic door traps: Recommended advanced rat traps that can attract sewer rats using food and nesting materials. Handling live rats becomes easier, and it generally does not cause liquid contamination of the trap and the ground.
Methods for Controlling Large-scale Sewer Rat Invasions
Especially when there is road construction or during the rainy season when flooding occurs, there may be outbreaks of sewer rats.
Tools to use: Specially formulated rodenticides, highly sensitive large rat traps, specially designed 3D adhesive papers, high-pressure electronic infrared rat traps.
Precautions for Sewer Rat Control:
It is not recommended to use chemicals to control sewer rats in indoor buildings, especially in residential homes and offices where people work. Otherwise, if sewer rats die, there will be odor that may take several weeks to completely disappear.
If necessary, professional rodenticides can be used in basements, garages, and non-residential areas. It is recommended to use specially formulated fast-acting rodenticides that have a quick response and work effectively in one direction, causing them to die outdoors. The amount of bait placed at one time should not be excessive and needs to be secured to prevent sewer rats from carrying a large amount back to their nests.
The new high-tech semi-automatic rat trap is an upgraded version of the ordinary high-pressure electronic rat trap. It can attract rats with food and nesting materials, making it easier to handle live rats. Generally, it does not cause liquid contamination of the trap and the ground after the rats' death.
Answers to Rodent Control Questions
1) How to determine the extent of rodent activity and the size of the rats?
The main indicators to determine the extent of rodent activity are observing their droppings, footprints, and gnawing marks. Rats have a metabolism rate four times faster than humans, and when food and water are abundant, they can excrete 50 to 100 droppings per day. Rats have small eye spacing, poor focusing and visual abilities. They primarily rely on their whiskers to sense their surroundings and feel secure near walls. They mark their direction and location through defecation and urination.
The size of rat droppings is proportional to the size of the rat. The droppings of young rats are thin and often discontinuous. If you find droppings of varying sizes, it indicates a group of rats active together. Fresh and soft rat droppings with bright colors suggest recent and highly active rat activity in that area. Black rat droppings indicate a diet mainly consisting of flour-based food, while white rat droppings indicate a diet mainly consisting of protein and meat.
Places that should be checked for signs of rodent activity include the area around the main cable outlet of the stove, around the main electric meter panel, garage doors, heating wire outlets, under the dishwasher, beneath kitchen countertops, especially at the junction of hot and cold water pipes, at the junction of wall and pipe, water pipe outlets, around water heaters, and in food storage compartments. Pay close attention to rat droppings, paw prints on the ground, and black oil footprints from friction.
2) How to differentiate between large and small rats and treat them accordingly?
Large rats are commonly known as sewer rats. They typically emerge from underground drainage systems and surrounding mounds of soil, with their water source not too far away. They are like skilled thieves, accustomed to carrying food to outdoor nests. Adult sewer rats are relatively intelligent and strong, rendering ordinary glue traps ineffective. The droppings of sewer rats are approximately the size of broad beans and have a rounded shape at both ends.
Small rats usually inhabit the interiors of human buildings, especially around cracks in walls. They move around like petty thieves, eating while on the move, and their nests are not too far away. The droppings of small rats are approximately the size of rice grains and have pointed ends. There is generally no need to worry too much about the odor after small rats die, as it becomes minimal after drying out and turning into ashes.
3）If the sound of mouse activity is inside the wall and they don't come out, where should I place mouse traps?
For small rodents, especially field mice, they often enter indoor spaces through roof gaps and move around inside the walls. The best places to put mouse traps or rodenticides are in the attic, where you can lift the ceiling panels and place the traps or bait there. Another suitable location is the access panel beneath the bathtub and areas where various water pipes converge, as these are often the pathways for mouse activity.
4）Are commonly available ultrasonic pest repellents effective?
There are many ultrasonic pest repellent products on the market that claim to drive away mice. However, based on our practical experience and laboratory testing, we have not found these products to have significant effects. Initially, mice may show some reaction to ultrasonic waves for a few days, but they quickly adapt and continue their normal foraging and exploring behavior. Therefore, the actual effectiveness of ultrasonic pest repellents is not significant, and their cost-effectiveness is low. We do not recommend using them.
5) Can mousetraps that have been in contact with humans or mousetraps with the odor of dead mice be reused?
Rodents that invade human living environments are accustomed to human smells. Our practical experience has not found any repellent reaction to old mousetraps. On the contrary, mousetraps with signs of usage have a higher success rate in capturing mice again. It is important to maintain hygiene, and it is recommended to use disposable gloves when handling mousetraps to prevent bacterial infections.
6) Can children and pets (cats and dogs) get poisoned by contact with mouse poison?
The common mouse poisons available in stores generally contain ingredients such as corn fiber and older generation anticoagulants. The rodenticides used by professionals are newer generation anticoagulants, with concentrations in the parts per million range, and they generally do not pose a significant risk to humans and pets. The ingredients in mouse poisons are often mixed with bittering agents, making them unattractive to pets and children, so there is no need to worry. Even if a pet cat consumes a poisoned mouse, it is not a major concern as the poison has already broken down. As a precautionary measure, it is recommended to take safety precautions to prevent accidental ingestion, such as using enclosed bait stations, which also help prevent various bacterial infections.
7) How can I tell if the mice have been completely eradicated? Should I seal the mouse holes?
Most North American buildings are made of wood, and over time, various gaps and aging occur, providing entry points for mice into human living spaces. Some suggest using common polyurethane foam insulation to seal mouse holes to address rodent problems. Based on our experience, we recommend sealing the holes after thoroughly eliminating the existing mice within the structure. Otherwise, the mice may chew through other areas, exacerbating the extent and severity of the infestation, while also wasting labor and materials. If no fresh mouse droppings or other signs of activity are found after a week, it can be concluded that the mice have been completely eradicated, and then the next step of cleaning and sealing the holes can be carried out.
8) What is the difference between composite delayed-action attractants and regular peanut butter?
Regular peanut butter is commonly used as an attractant in mouse traps. This method is simple and effective. However, peanut butter has some drawbacks, such as potential allergies for some people, and it can be consumed by various insects and molds easily. We recommend using composite delayed-action attractants, which use highly attractive food combined with complex flavorings and preservatives that are less prone to mold. They are also attached to non-woven fiber, increasing their attractiveness as mice continuously search for nesting materials, making them more efficient. These attractants are suitable for use in commercial mouse traps.
9) What should I do if the mice don't eat the poison, avoid the traps, and ignore the glue boards?
During the process of rodent extermination, there are several common reasons why mice may not be attracted to the usual methods:
1. Insufficient number of traps or glue boards, or improper placement. The distance between the glue boards and the ground may hinder the mice's movement.
2. There may be an abundance of competing food sources, and mice are accustomed to a particular type of food. They are less likely to change their habits easily in certain activity areas.
3. The placement of poison and traps may not be within the range of mouse activity.
To address this situation, you can take the following measures:
- Pay attention to cleanliness and remove any food that mice may nibble on. Seal potential food sources and, if needed, cover food with cuttable glue boards.
- Use improved rodenticides that incorporate highly attractive food that mice prefer, and adjust the proportions of the active ingredients.
- Change the positions of traps and glue boards, try different types of glue boards, and place them close to the ground and near pipes.
- Relocate the bait stations, prioritizing areas close to the base of walls or where there are fresh signs of mouse activity, and be patient for a few days.
- Consider using infrared electronic smart traps, which activate the trapping mechanism whenever a mouse passes by the electronic sensor.